Things they don't tell you in the brochure, Pt. 11
Settling inThe Harpers9 min readSample dates
Moving to Portugal from North America means trading a fast-paced, often convenient lifestyle complete with consumer comforts for a more deliberate, community-driven, Mediterranean life. Expats must be prepared mentally and emotionally to shed the notion that anything will be accomplished sooner than “manhã”. There are very heavy cultural, domestic, and administrative adjustments to untangle for one to settle here. Even if the plan is to stay for three months, one will undoubtedly encounter systemic dysfunction that ranges from a funny anecdote at dinner parties to one big migraine. For your comfort, a “twig in the stream” approach to the day-to-day is suggested.
The first thing to note is a pervasive and immediate health concern — mold. One must look out for black mold. It is everywhere, and it seems that the average European does not view this as the huge health concern that it is. Examine Airbnbs, Vrbos, and holiday rentals for black mold, and make it clear that when you ask for a place “with character” or “European flair” you want said place without mold. Since it is so common, look for it to be mentioned in reviews prior to booking holiday rentals and renting homes. There are times of the year, like the rainy season, where one will go to bed without black mold and wake up with it forming in a bathroom that is not properly ventilated and has no window.
North Americans will not be used to housing without insulation. While this is a warm climate with more than 300 days of sunshine, it gets quite cold inside from December to March. Central heating and air conditioning may be a feature in new construction but not in most properties, and the local approach is to heat or cool the room you occupy. What this means day to day is that there are not any “cooling centers” in the summer, which reaches 30 degrees and higher — go to a supermarket and the meat will be refrigerated but the humans inside will suffer. The same is true of shopping malls. This brings a very positive rule of thumb for animal lovers: throughout the Algarve animals are almost always welcome inside, and some grocers even have a place to “park your pet” in the foyer. Traditional construction relies on thick stone and masonry designed to beat summer heat, leaving homes notoriously damp and chilly in winter, so expats often rely on space heaters, reverse-cycle air conditioning units, or thick sweaters.
Healthcare, and a note on patience
The health care here, even without the residency card, has in my experience been phenomenal. Not many months after touching down, a piece of bread took out the filling in my tooth. I went to a dentist prepared to pay a fortune. On the day, with very limited Portuguese, I noticed the dentist was about to begin without novocaine. I stopped everything: “excuse me, but I don't have any drugs — I need an injection!” The dentist, a lovely Portuguese lady, calmed me down, which took thirty minutes. She was very confident that she would not hurt me and insisted we start, with the agreement that I would raise my hand if I felt anything. About fifteen minutes later she asked if I still wanted the drugs. I said I would let her know once she got started, as agreed. She told me she was all finished and asked me to bite down on a paper. I felt nothing. Fifty-five euros later I was on my way home without so much as a headache. A friend cut her thumb and needed stitches; hers cost nineteen euros. These costs in no way compare to the prices I am accustomed to paying — but one must not rely on public healthcare alone.
If your home country has made you accustomed to instant customer service, 24/7 delivery, and streamlined digital portals, you will face a stark contrast. Administrative processes — securing residency appointments via AIMA, getting a bank account, a NISS number and an SNS number — take a substantial amount of time and patience. Patience is not just a virtue here; it is a necessity, since many processes still favour face-to-face contact over digital navigation.
Unlike the United States, there is no Amazon Portugal, meaning next-day delivery on household goods does not exist. Think 2002, not 2026. There is good news for those who like home delivery: there is Bolt, Glovo, Uber Eats, Temu, and Uber. Large American-style refrigerators and pantries are rare due to smaller kitchen footprints, and grocery shopping is a frequent, localized, fresh daily experience rather than a weekly bulk trip. This is actually a good thing, since your produce is candy sweet, fresh, and ready to eat. While the cost of living remains significantly lower than in major US cities, prices are climbing. Expat Pal always encourages negotiating and using our local Portuguese Pal connections, because the price is always lower if pricing is discussed in Portuguese. US expats retain US tax obligations, and local point-of-sale tax is 23% on goods and services. Locals will frequently fail to provide receipts, “faturas”, for services, but failing to issue receipts is a common way of defrauding the government of lawful tax — and because the practice is illegal it is important to insist on the fatura when making purchases.
Successfully relocating involves unlearning the urge to rush, embracing local Portuguese customs, attempting the language, and remembering to pack your patience. Prioritize human relationships over convenience and it will ease the transition — so sip some wine, and as they say, let's talk again soon.

